Port Blair

Port Blair is the vibrant, bustling entry point to the emerald paradise of the Andaman Islands. For most travelers, it is the first taste of the archipelago—a lively, hilly city where the azure sea peeks out between lush green slopes and the air is thick with the promise of idyllic islands just a ferry ride away. Yet, beneath this cheerful, tropical facade lies a history so profound and somber that it commands reverence. Port Blair is a city with a dual identity: it is the bright, welcoming gateway to some of the world’s most beautiful beaches, but it is also the solemn guardian of stories of immense sacrifice and the unyielding spirit of India’s freedom struggle.

The city’s most defining chapter is written in the bricks of the infamous Cellular Jail, a name that sends a shiver down the spine of history. Long before it was a tourist destination, the Andamans were synonymous with punishment. The British established a penal colony here, and its fearsome centerpiece was this colonial prison, known as Kala Pani or “Black Water”—a name that signified a journey of no return. This was not an ordinary prison; it was a purpose-built instrument of torture and isolation, designed to systematically break the spirit of India’s most defiant freedom fighters. Revolutionaries from across the country were exiled here, subjected to brutal labour and solitary confinement, their only view the endless, mocking sea. To understand Port Blair is to first understand that the very ground beneath your feet was consecrated by the suffering and sacrifice of these national heroes.

While the Cellular Jail tells a story of suffering, the nearby Netaji Subhas Chandra Bose Island (formerly Ross Island) tells a story of colonial power and the relentless march of nature. This was the luxurious administrative headquarters of the British, a “Paris of the East” with grand bungalows, ballrooms, churches, and manicured gardens. Today, it is a magnificent ruin, a ghost town where the forest has reclaimed its territory, with giant, ancient tree roots strangling the crumbling Victorian brickwork in a slow, powerful embrace. It is a hauntingly beautiful testament to the impermanence of empire.

Today’s Port Blair is a multicultural microcosm of mainland India. Its population is largely composed of the descendants of these freedom fighters and settlers from all corners of the country who have made these islands their home. This creates a unique cultural tapestry and a diverse culinary scene. While it serves as the essential administrative and commercial hub, it is also a place that insists you pause. It urges you to look beyond the pristine beaches you are headed for and to first pay homage to the history that makes this beautiful land truly Indian. A visit here is not just a transit point; it is an essential prologue to the Andaman story, one that adds a layer of profound depth to the paradise that awaits.

Key Attractions:

• Cellular Jail (National Memorial): The most important and moving landmark in the Andamans. This beautifully maintained national memorial was once a brutal colonial prison. You can walk through its seven wings (of which three remain), peer into the tiny, solitary cells, and visit the gallows. The real heart of the experience is the evening Light and Sound Show, a powerful and poignant narration that brings the stories of the prisoners to life, detailing their struggle, their suffering, and their indomitable spirit. It is an unmissable and deeply emotional experience.

• Netaji Subhas Chandra Bose Island (Ross Island): A short ferry ride from Port Blair, this island was the opulent administrative capital of the British. Exploring the island is like walking through a lost city. You can wander through the stunning ruins of the Chief Commissioner’s bungalow, a grand church, a bakery, and a ballroom, all being actively reclaimed by nature. The island is also home to a friendly population of deer and peacocks.

• Corbyn’s Cove Beach: The main beach for the city of Port Blair. It is a pleasant, crescent-shaped cove fringed with coconut palms. While not as pristine as the beaches on Havelock or Neil, it is a popular spot for locals and tourists to relax, take a dip, and enjoy some water sports like jet skiing and motor boating. The drive to the beach along the coast is incredibly scenic.

• Chidiya Tapu (The “Bird Island”): Located at the southernmost tip of South Andaman, Chidiya Tapu is a paradise for nature lovers. It is renowned for its lush green mangroves, diverse birdlife, and most famously, its breathtaking sunsets. The beach here is quiet and serene, and the biological park provides more insight into the region’s endemic flora and fauna. It’s the perfect place to end a day of sightseeing.

• Samudrika Naval Marine Museum: Run by the Indian Navy, this excellent museum provides a comprehensive overview of the Andaman Islands. It is divided into five sections covering the islands’ history, geography, anthropology, and rich marine life. The highlight is the large collection of shells and corals and a small aquarium.

• Anthropological Museum: An essential visit for anyone interested in the human history of these islands. This museum offers a detailed and respectful insight into the lives and cultures of the region’s indigenous tribes, including the Jarawas, Sentinelese, Great Andamanese, and the Onges. The exhibits display their tools, clothing, art, and way of life.

• Chatham Saw Mill: One of the oldest and largest wood processing units in Asia, this sawmill has been functional since 1883. It is a fascinating piece of living history, connected to the mainland by a wooden bridge. A bomb dropped here during World War II has left a crater that is now filled with water. A tour provides insight into the timber industry and the history of the islands.