Rising like a magnificent golden mirage from the heart of the vast Thar Desert, Jaisalmer is a city that seems to have been spun from sand and sun. Its very essence is magic. Unlike any other city in India, Jaisalmer’s crowning glory is its incredible living fort—a massive, fortified citadel that is not just a historic monument, but a vibrant, breathing community where thousands of people still live and work within its ancient walls. The entire city, both inside and outside the fort, is carved from the local yellow sandstone. When the sun’s rays kiss this stone, it glows with a warm, honey-gold light, earning Jaisalmer its romantic and fitting nickname: “The Golden City.”
Founded in the 12th century by Maharawal Jaisal of the Bhati Rajput clan, the city’s strategic location on the ancient camel caravan routes between India and Central Asia brought it immense wealth. The rich merchants and nobles of the city built magnificent havelis (mansions), each more ornate than the last. These havelis, with their exquisitely carved sandstone facades, delicate latticework screens (jalis), and beautiful balconies (jharokhas), are architectural masterpieces that showcase the incredible skill of the local stonemasons. To wander through the narrow, winding lanes of Jaisalmer is to be surrounded by this breathtaking artistry at every turn.
But the allure of Jaisalmer extends beyond its golden walls. The city is the gateway to the vast, windswept expanse of the Thar Desert and the iconic Sam Sand Dunes. The experience of venturing into this sea of sand is the other half of the Jaisalmer story. A camel safari at sunset, watching the sky erupt in colour as the dunes shift and change their shape with the wind, is a moment of pure, unforgettable magic. As night falls, a sky filled with a million brilliant stars emerges, and an evening spent at a desert camp, listening to the soulful, haunting melodies of Rajasthani folk musicians, is an experience that touches the very soul.
A visit to Jaisalmer is a journey into a fairy tale. It is a chance to live within the walls of a medieval fort, to marvel at the impossible intricacy of its architecture, and to feel the profound silence and timeless beauty of the great Indian desert.
Jaisalmer Fort (Sonar Quila): A UNESCO World Heritage Site, this is one of the very few “living forts” in the world. Rising from the desert plain, its massive sandstone walls seem to grow organically from the rock. Within its 99 bastions lies a labyrinthine network of narrow lanes, shops, hotels, restaurants, and beautiful havelis, all still inhabited. The main attractions inside the fort include the Maharaja’s Palace and a stunning complex of intricately carved Jain Temples.
Patwon Ki Haveli: This is not a single haveli but a cluster of five magnificent mansions, built by a wealthy merchant for his five sons. It is the largest and most elaborate of all the havelis in Jaisalmer. Its facade is a breathtaking display of intricately carved yellow sandstone, with over 60 beautifully designed balconies. A visit inside allows you to see the opulent lifestyle of the merchants of a bygone era.
Sam Sand Dunes: The quintessential desert experience. Located about 40 kilometers from the city, these vast, shifting sand dunes are the perfect place to witness the beauty of the Thar Desert. The classic experience is to take a Camel Safari deep into the dunes to watch the spectacular sunset. For a bigger thrill, you can also opt for a more adventurous jeep safari.
Gadisar Lake: A serene and beautiful man-made reservoir that was once the sole source of water for the city. The lake is surrounded by a series of beautiful temples, holy shrines, and cenotaphs (chhatris). A boat ride on its calm waters, especially in the early morning, is a peaceful experience. The magnificent Tilon-ki-Pol, an ornate gateway that arches over the road to the lake, is a famous landmark.
Salim Singh Ki Haveli: A unique and beautiful haveli famous for its distinctive and striking architecture. The top story of the haveli expands outwards in an ornate design, resembling the stern of a ship, which has earned it the nickname “Jahazmahal” (Ship Palace). Its roof is beautifully crafted, and its balconies are all of different designs.
Nathmal Ki Haveli: Another stunning haveli, which was built by two brothers for the prime minister of the state. The two brothers worked on the haveli’s facade from opposite sides, and the result is a design that is perfectly symmetrical in its overall pattern, but with intricate individual carvings that are all slightly different. The entrance is guarded by two beautiful stone elephants.
Kuldhara Village: A haunting and mysterious “ghost village” located a short drive from Jaisalmer. Once a prosperous settlement, the entire village was abandoned overnight by its residents in the 19th century. The empty streets and crumbling houses, along with the legends of a curse, create a deeply atmospheric and intriguing place to explore.
Bada Bagh (“Big Garden”): A serene garden complex that contains a series of royal cenotaphs, or chhatris, of the Maharajas of Jaisalmer. The beautiful golden cenotaphs, set against the desert landscape, create a stunning and picturesque scene, especially at sunrise or sunset.