Bikaner

Rising from the heart of the great Thar Desert, the city of Bikaner is a magnificent testament to the valor and artistic vision of the Rathore princes. Unlike the golden hue of Jaisalmer or the blue of Jodhpur, Bikaner is the “Red City,” its identity forged from the rich red sandstone used to build its formidable fort and historic palaces. This is a city of stark, dramatic beauty, a place where the harshness of the desert landscape has given birth to a culture that is vibrant, resilient, and deeply proud. It is a city of majestic forts, exquisitely painted havelis, and the world’s most unusual temple, all flavored with the irresistible, spicy crunch of its most famous creation: the Bikaneri Bhujia.

Founded in 1488 by Rao Bika, a younger son of the founder of Jodhpur, Bikaner was established as a strategic outpost on the ancient caravan trade routes that crisscrossed the desert. This position brought great wealth to the city, which is reflected in the stunning opulence of its architecture. The merchants and nobles built magnificent havelis (mansions) in the old city, their facades covered in a beautiful filigree of intricate carving and colourful painting.

But the true heart of Bikaner’s power and pride is the magnificent Junagarh Fort. What makes this fort almost unique in Rajasthan is that it is built on the plains, not on a high hill. Its founders were so confident in their military prowess that they did not need the advantage of high ground. This confidence was not misplaced; Junagarh is a fort that was never conquered. To walk through its magnificent gates is to enter a world of incredible luxury and artistic splendor, a series of courtyards, palaces, and pavilions that showcase the incredible wealth and taste of the Bikaner rulers.

Beyond the fort, the spirit of Bikaner is found in its relationship with its most iconic animal: the camel. The city is home to the National Research Centre on Camel, and the annual Bikaner Camel Festival is a spectacular celebration of the “ship of the desert,” with camel races, dances, and beauty pageants. A journey to Bikaner is an immersion into the rugged soul of the desert, a chance to explore a fort that has never fallen, to visit a temple unlike any other, and to taste the authentic, spicy flavors of Rajasthan.

Key Attractions:

• Junagarh Fort: The crown jewel of Bikaner. This formidable fort is a stunning complex of palaces built in red sandstone and marble. Unlike other forts, it is not on a hill, yet it was never conquered. As you move through its courtyards and palaces, such as the Anup Mahal with its stunning gold leaf work, the Phool Mahal (Flower Palace), and the Badal Mahal (Cloud Palace) with its beautiful blue cloud motifs, you witness the incredible luxury of the Bikaner Maharajas.

• Karni Mata Temple, Deshnoke: One of the most unusual and famous temples in the world. Located in the nearby town of Deshnoke, this temple is dedicated to Karni Mata, a mystic female sage. The temple is famous for the thousands of holy rats, known as kabbas, that live and are worshipped within its precincts. It is considered highly auspicious if a rat scurries over your feet, and the sighting of a rare white rat is believed to be a special blessing.

• Lalgarh Palace: A magnificent architectural masterpiece built in the Indo-Saracenic style. This red sandstone palace was built in the early 20th century by Maharaja Ganga Singh. While parts of the palace have been converted into a luxury hotel and a museum, its stunning lattice work (jalis), intricate carvings, and sprawling lawns speak to the grandeur of a more recent royal era.

• The Old City and Havelis: A walk through the narrow, winding lanes of Bikaner’s old city is a journey back in time. The area is famous for its collection of stunning havelis (traditional mansions), such as the Rampuria Havelis. These mansions, built by wealthy merchants, are renowned for their exquisitely carved facades, ornate jharokhas (enclosed balconies), and beautiful artwork.

• National Research Centre on Camel: A unique institution dedicated to the camel. This is a fascinating place to learn about the different breeds of camels and their importance to the desert ecosystem. You can see camels of all ages, from young calves to fully grown adults. A highlight is trying the unique products made from camel milk, like ice cream and lassi.

• Gajner Palace and Wildlife Sanctuary: Located on the banks of a beautiful lake, this former royal hunting lodge is now a stunning heritage hotel. The surrounding wildlife sanctuary is a peaceful place where you can spot animals like nilgai (blue bull), chinkara, and blackbuck, offering a serene natural escape from the city.

• Bhandasar Jain Temple: This beautiful 15th-century temple is dedicated to the Jain Tirthankara Sumatinath. It is particularly famous for its stunning and intricate mirror work, colourful frescoes, and the unique foundation which, according to legend, was made using thousands of kilograms of pure ghee (clarified butter) instead of water in the mortar.