Bhubaneswar

There are few cities in India where the past and present coexist with such profound harmony as they do in Bhubaneswar. This is a city with two distinct and compelling souls. On one hand, it is the ancient Ekamra Kshetra, the “Temple City of India,” a place where, for over a thousand years, a magnificent symphony in sandstone has been unfolding. Its Old Town is a living, breathing museum, where the skyline is defined not by skyscrapers, but by the magnificent, curvilinear spires of hundreds of ancient stone temples. On the other hand, it is a modern, green, and meticulously planned state capital, one of India’s first “Smart Cities,” with spacious boulevards and contemporary infrastructure. To journey through Bhubaneswar is to travel seamlessly between centuries, from the sacred silence of a 7th-century shrine to the vibrant energy of a 21st-century metropolis.

But Bhubaneswar’s significance transcends even its incredible architectural heritage. The ground here bore witness to one of the most transformative events in human history: the Kalinga War in 261 BCE. On the banks of the Daya River, the Mauryan emperor Ashoka fought a battle so brutal and bloody that the river was said to have turned red. The sheer scale of the carnage led to a profound spiritual crisis in Ashoka, causing him to renounce violence forever and embrace the path of peace and Dhamma (Dharma). It was here that “Chandashoka” (Ashoka the Fierce) became “Dhammashoka” (Ashoka the Pious). This single event propelled the spread of Buddhism from a local sect into a world religion. A visit to the serene Dhauli hills, where Ashoka’s rock edicts are carved and a pristine white Peace Pagoda now stands, is to feel the powerful echo of this momentous change of heart.

The city’s artistic legacy is etched in stone. For centuries, beginning around the 6th century CE, Bhubaneswar was the epicenter of the Kalinga school of architecture. The temples here are not just places of worship; they are textbooks of art, mythology, and social life, their walls covered in exquisite carvings of deities, celestial maidens, mythical creatures, and scenes from daily life. This artistic tradition is also alive in the region’s celebrated Odissi classical dance, whose graceful postures are often mirrored in the temple sculptures. This rich heritage, combined with its modern, well-managed urban planning, makes Bhubaneswar a unique and deeply rewarding destination, a place that honors its glorious past while confidently striding into the future.

Key Attractions:

• Lingaraj Temple: The magnificent, towering symbol of Bhubaneswar. This 11th-century temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva and is the pinnacle of Kalinga architecture. Its main spire, or deula, soars to a height of 180 feet, dominating the city’s old quarter. The entire complex is vast and contains over 50 smaller shrines. The intricate carvings that adorn its exterior are breathtaking in their detail and craftsmanship. (Note: Non-Hindus are not permitted inside the main sanctum but can get an excellent view from a dedicated viewing platform located outside the temple walls.)

• Mukteshwar Temple: Widely regarded as the “Gem of Odisha Architecture,” this small but exquisitely detailed 10th-century temple is an absolute masterpiece. It is most famous for its stunningly ornate stone archway, or torana, which serves as the entrance. The temple perfectly blends intricate carving with architectural harmony, making it one of the most beautiful in India. The annual Mukteshwar Dance Festival, held here, is a major cultural event.

• Rajarani Temple: Often called the “Love Temple” for its beautiful, sensuous carvings of celestial maidens (apsaras) and couples. What sets this 11th-century temple apart is its unique spires, which are clustered together in a style reminiscent of the temples of Khajuraho. Set in beautifully manicured gardens, it is admired more as an architectural marvel than a religious site, as it has no presiding deity.

• Udayagiri and Khandagiri Caves: A journey back to the 1st century BCE. These twin hills are honeycombed with rock-cut caves that were carved out as residences for Jain monks under the patronage of King Kharavela. While Udayagiri has more elaborate caves with intricate carvings depicting royal processions and mythological stories, Khandagiri offers a stunning panoramic view of the city from its summit, where a beautiful Jain temple still stands.

• Dhauli Giri Shanti Stupa: A powerful symbol of peace, this pristine white stupa stands majestically on the Dhauli hills, overlooking the plains of the Daya River where the Kalinga War was fought. Built by the Japan Buddha Sangha in the 1970s, it is a serene and contemplative spot. Nearby, you can see the famous rock edicts of Ashoka, where his profound remorse and his commitment to non-violence are carved into stone for eternity.

• Nandankanan Zoological Park: A large and modern zoo set in a beautiful natural forest environment, famous for being one of the world’s most successful breeding centers for the majestic white tiger. It also includes a beautiful botanical garden and a large lake for boating, making it an excellent family destination.

• Odisha State Museum: For those who wish to delve deeper into the region’s incredible heritage, this museum is a must-visit. It houses a rich collection of sculptures, ancient coins, palm-leaf manuscripts, traditional musical instruments, and stunning examples of Pattachitra paintings, offering a comprehensive look at the art and history of Odisha.